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On our final day in Venice, we decided to visit San Marco Basilica. It dominates the view at the east end of San Marco Piazza and looks quite unlike most Italian churches (to me anyway!). The earliest construction dates back to 828, but was destroyed. The earliest construction of the current building is thought to be from around 1063. This building has been standing here for almost 1000 years, and apparently the basic structure has not been altered much. The church was originally the Doge's Chapel, and did not become the city's Cathedral until 1807. It is known as the "Chiesa d'Oro" (Church of Gold)... nicknamed because of its opulent design and golden mosaics.
You stand in a long line to get in, but it moves pretty fast. I'm sure we were not in line for more than 15 minutes. When you go inside you can not take a backpack. Apparently, they make you check it somewhere else, but they aren't terribly forthcoming with the information. The person in front of us was basically just told no, and get out. He must have figured it out, because I did see him inside later 😀
There is no cost to get in to see the main church, but there are three places inside you can pay to see. When you walk in you have to follow in a crazily packed line while you admire the basilica. There isn't really a place to stop, as the chairs are roped off. You are also not allowed to take any photos inside, which I suspect is to keep the line moving.
The first place you can pay to see is off to the right on the way to the front. That is the treasury. We did not go in there. Then you get stuck in a giant crushing line, which we assumed was part of the regular tour, but ended up being a line to pay to go behind the altar. We did not do this either, and could see the altar from the regular part of the church. I guess if you want to get up close you could pay to see it.
Finally, we followed the whole line around back to the entrance of the church again. This is where you can cut through the lobby to go upstairs to the last place you can pay for which is the San Marco Museum. This one we did pay for, mostly because I wanted to go up to the terrace and look over the square 😀
You have to walk up quite a long flight of "historical steps" to get to the top. The stair risers are quite high, and it's not for anyone who has mobility problems! At the top you pay 5 Euros each, and then move into the museum. This was actually my favourite spot to look at the basilica from because I wasn't in a crush of people and I could look over the whole room with its golden domes, mosaic floors, endless pillars and catwalks (what are the catwalks for??) and many frescoes and mosaics! For me, that alone was worth the 5 Euros!
There is also the added bonus of seeing drawings and models of the basilica, archaeological pieces dating back hundreds of years, and 4 bronze (well they are called bronze, but are 96% copper!) horses that have been dated back to the 2nd or 3rd century AD. I think the horses are Steve's favourite part as he likes their sordid history. They started out in Constantinople and have been looted many times by different countries, before ending up in their resting place at San Marco! You are still not allowed to take photos inside, even up here, so you'll either have to imagine it or use "The Google" 😉 Better yet, you should come visit it yourself!
You are also able to head out on the "loggia" (terrace) to look over St. Mark's Square.
When you come out the doors and go to the right you really feel like you are walking on the roof as it is sloped and uneven. Don't worry, there's a railing to keep you from tumbling down into the square!
You can also see replicas of the four horses out here. They have put the originals inside for conservation reasons.
You can also walk over to the left (which has a more even floor) and look out over towards the water.
After our visit to the basilica, we headed off to find some food. Steve and I were in charge of finding the restaurant we had chosen the other day. We made one wrong turn, but still miraculously found it... although we certainly went the long way! One wrong turn in Venice can add quite a distance on to your trip! The bonus is you can see beautiful little canals while you are lost 😉
We enjoyed a delicious meal out in their back garden.
Steve says this was the best meal he has had in Europe so far this summer! He had some amazing handmade gnocchi with mushrooms and mussels.
There were a few other things of note today...
- Steve and I both got a new leather handbag. (Yes, Steve got one too!) I don't know if it will be my last though, there are just so many beautiful bags. Imagine me counting like the Count on Sesame Street.... One handbag.... Ah ha ha!
- Jess, Mom and Gary went out for some sort of amazing dessert before bedtime that Jess was literally gushing about. I can't even begin to describe all the words she was using. Suffice it to say she was a fan!
- Steve had an interesting conversation with a young man who has lived in Venice all his life. Steve told him how lucky he was to live here, but he said no. Guess why he wanted to live somewhere else? He wanted to be able to drive a car! Makes sense. I never thought about it, but a lot of people who live here, probably never drive a car!
So ends our time in Venice. Next, we are off to Florence!
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