Temples and Muay Thai

December 17, 2010

Senne's Summary: Today we took a tour to four very different temples (they were ALL beautiful!) and then Steve went to Lumpini Stadium to watch the fights.

This morning we were expecting Mr. Joy to show up at 10:00 AM, but instead he sent his "friend", Mr. Eddie. Mr. Eddie had pretty good English and seemed nice so we headed out with him. We showed him our list of where we wanted to go: 4 Temples, pick up Lumpinee Tickets and then drop Steve off at the stadium at 6 PM. Steve also wanted to go to Chinatown to see if he could find some baton chucks. Mr. Eddie said he’d never seen them there, but would take us anyway.

The first place we arrived was the Shrine of the Golden Buddha (Phra Maha Mondop).

This place holds something pretty amazing… a solid gold Buddha weighing about 5.5 tonnes! It used to be coated with plaster lacquer and gilded, but in 1955 when it was dropped while they were moving it some of the plaster accidentally chipped and the Golden Buddha inside was discovered. This Golden Buddha is actually in the Guinness Book of World Records because it is the “Sacred object with the highest intrinsic value”. Imagine 5.5 tonnes of solid gold! It was really quite stunning to look at.

The room itself is also quite beautiful and the walls, doors and ceiling are elaborately decorated. We also went into the little exhibition on the floor below which explained the history of the Golden Buddha (very interesting).

Our next stop was the Temple of Dawn (Wat Arun).  It is has the name “The Temple of Dawn” because it is the temple that the morning light first touches.

This place was very cool because we got to climb up some very steep and high steps where you get a great view of the river and surrounding area.

Check out these steps!

This temple has a tall building in the centre with 4 smaller towers and 4 pavilions surrounding it. The decorations on the temple came from broken glass and ceramics that came from Chinese merchant vessels coming to Thailand.

You can go part way up the main tower on some very steep steps (luckily they had hand railings to help me pull myself up!) We noticed a ladder on the tallest part of the tower… I’m not sure who is supposed to climb up there (for maintenance I’m assuming)… but I’m glad it’s not me!

After this Eddie took us to an agency to pick up Steve’s ticket for the Muay Thai fight tonight. This agent was much more efficient and not apathetic at all. It barely took a few minutes and we were back in the car headed to the Grand Palace.

We also drove through Chinatown (very slowly… traffic was heavy!) and didn’t see any obvious places to pick up Steve’s supplies 😉 It’s interesting how Chinatown in every city looks pretty much the same…

Our next stop was the Grand Palace. The Grand Palace complex was established in 1782 by the King.

It housed his residence and administrative offices. It is no longer used as the King’s residence and seems to mostly be a tourist destination from what I can see.

It is filled with beautiful, sparkly gilded buildings and also houses the Royal Monastery of the Emerald Buddha.

This is an exterior wall. So intricate!

The Emerald Buddha is actually carved from a block of green jade and was first discovered in 1434. This Buddha was also covered in plaster, and when it was discovered to be green inside they originally thought it was Emerald. That’s how the name began.

The Emerald Buddha

After the Grand Palace we asked Eddie to take us somewhere that we could get good Thai food for lunch. He took us to a restaurant that he says he goes to every Friday night with his friends. I had a very delicious Pad Thai and Steve had river prawns. The food was extremely delicious! The restaurant was right on the river’s edge and you could see loads of catfish swimming and jumping right from where we were sitting. Eddie went somewhere to buy some bread to feed them. They just looked like a giant swarm of fish while they were fighting for it!

After lunch we went to our last temple which was Wat Pho. This Wat is the oldest Wat in Bangkok (Built in the 16th century) and houses the gigantic reclining Buddha. You can’t really imagine how big it is until you see it… but it’s 46 meters long!!! I think I actually said, “Wow!” out loud when we first walked in. When you first enter the temple you are by the Buddha’s head and then walk the entire length of the body to the other end of the temple.

When you get to the feet you notice that the giant feet have many mother of pearl inlay designs. The designs on the feet are symmetrical! I could have spent a lot of time just looking at it (okay I was checking to make sure it was perfectly symmetrical).

After you pass by the feet you see a whole bunch of little metal bowls running the length of the wall. Eddie explained to us that you pay 20 Baht (about 60 cents) to get a little dish of small coins. (The money goes towards the monks) Before you start putting the coins in you talk to Buddha and ask for health and happiness for yourself, your family and friends. Then you go down the length and put a coin in each bowl. Steve and I both did this… so if you felt positive vibes coming your way it was because we wished you health and happiness as we went down the line 😀

After we exited the building there were still more things to see in this complex. There were multiple rows of Big Buddhas (Steve really liked looking at these!), and there was also another beautiful temple.

Eddie thought we could go in, but they wouldn’t let us in at the moment because the monks were meeting inside. As they hadn’t quite started yet the guard said Steve could take a picture through the door… and this particular photo ended being our favourite of the whole entire day.

Final Important Note about Temples! You can not wear your shoes inside, so at most temples you will find this:

And finally I just wanted to include this photo of statues teaching some yoga poses!

After this we had Eddie drop me back off at the hotel and then take Steve to Lumpinee Stadium to see the fights. Traffic was again INSANE, but eventually we both ended up where we wanted to be!

Okay… Steve starts typing here!

As we approached Lumpinee Stadium from the opposite side of the road, Eddie pointed and said, “There’s Lumpinee Stadium”.   I’m expecting a STADIUM or COLLESEUM type structure, and I’m not seeing it…I chalk it up to, I must be looking in the wrong area.  Eddie does a u-turn and eventually comes to a stop in front of what looks do be quite simply another local shopping area.  Eddie points and says, “There Lumpinee”.  I look, where he is pointing and say, “Where?”  He repeats, “There Lumpinee”.  Still looking for a STADIUM, I’m about to say, “I’m sorry I don’t see it”…when I notice the sign “TICKETS” at the back of the parking lot which is the size of a very small strip mall.  I thank Eddie, pay him and exit the taxi.  I look across the parking lot and can’t help thinking, “This is Lumpinee Stadium?”

I was expecting something much more colossal.  If you are Thai and living in Thailand, to fight in Lumpinee is every serious/professional Muay Thai fighter’s dream.  To be a Lumpinee Champion is everything; so I was expecting a much grander venue.  But when I entered the Stadium, for what it lacked in size it certainly made up with atmosphere.  I can safely say, that I have never and will likely never again be witness to a more emotionally charged crowd or venue.  Everything around you in Lumpinee blends together to make it an experience one will never forget. The combatants hammering each other with full power kicks, knees, elbows and punches; each blow would cripple a mere mortal, but to these fighters, who must be made of iron…nothing phases them. The roar of the crowd as they cheer for every blow their fighter has landed.  The frenzied betting of the locals that takes place between each round looks like the floor of the New York Stock Exchange at opening bell. It all makes for a great night.

To fight in Lumpinee you must be at least 15 years of age and weigh-in somewhere between 100-147 lbs (special arrangements occasionally happen for heavier fighters).  The difference in weight between two opponents may not be more than 5 pounds. Each match is either 4 or 5 rounds.  The first round is always a slow start, as they feel each other out.  Each round increases with intensity.  You start sitting up  near the end of round two, and are on the edge of your seat for rounds 4 and 5. Yes, the combatants are small, but don’t let this fool you.  Their bodies are rock hard (especially their legs and core), seem impervious to pain, strike with lightning speed and hit like a wrecking ball.  Unbelievable warriors.

If you are going to be in Bangkok, and have time to watch a match at Lumpinee I would highly recommend it.  If you are a martial artist or a big fight fan I would suggest that you do whatever you can to make time…you will thoroughly enjoy yourself. I sat ringside (they call it VIP seating).  This basically consists of a padded chair on the floor, four rows deep from the ring apron.  No matter where you buy the tickets from, your hotel, a travel/tour agency, or the Lumpinee Stadium ticket office, ringside will cost you 2000 Baht (about $66 Canadian)…just do it.  You can get Second tier seating for half price and third tier for a little cheaper.  All the locals (who are betting up a storm between rounds) sit in the 2nd and 3rd tier, and they pack them in like sardines.  You not only get a better more comfortable view from ringside but you get a great view to watch the betters between rounds.  When you visit Bangkok, Do NOT miss out on Lumpinee Stadium.